Before You Begin
The installation kit contains two fobs, panic button receiver, light, two inline fuse holders, two fuses, 4 ft. (1.2 m.) extension cable, self-tapping screw, ring terminal, star washer, six heat shrink butt connectors, eight 8 in. (20 cm.) cable ties, and two 14 in. (35.5 cm.) cable ties.
Additional tools needed include a cordless drill, heat gun, 1/2 in. (13 mm) drill bit, Philips bit, insulated crimper, and wire stripper.
Installation Steps
The following steps provide an overview of the installation process:
- Install preparation.
- Light installation.
- Panic button receiver installation.
- Device Connections.
1. Install preparation.
- Remove panels to find a suitable panic button receiver mounting location.
- Identify a suitable mounting location for the light indicator, confirm the area directly behind the mounting location is clear and the panel can be put back into place without the light affecting panel reassembly.
- With keys removed from the ignition and using a digital multimeter, find a circuit providing +12 VDC of constant power.
- Identify a suitable chassis ground location; dash metal is not an acceptable grounding location.
The panic button receiver’s blue antenna should not be extended and must be mounted as high as possible along the underside of the dash. If needed, only extend the receiver’s white, black, or red wires; do not extend the blue antenna wire.
2. Light installation.
Locate light, cordless drill, heat gun, 1/2 in.(13 mm) drill bit, butt connector, in-line, fuse holder, and fuse.- Drill a 1/2 in.(13 mm) hole for the light in the location identified in Installation preparation Step #1.2.
- From the front of the dash panel, feed the light wires through the hole and press the light so that it is flush with the face of the panel.
- Crimp in-line fuse to the red wire and insert the fuse into the holder.
- Route the light wires to the GPS device mounting location behind the dash cluster.
3. Panic button receiver installation.
Locate the panic button receiver, in-line fuse holder, fuse, ring terminal, star washer, self-tapping screw, wire strippers, and insulated crimper.If needed, use extension cable and butt connectors, to extend the receiver’s red and white wires to the GPS device mounting location behind the dash cluster.
- Remove 1 in. (2.5 cm) of insulation from the receiver’s two black wires, fray the wire strands of each, twist together and crimp them to a ring terminal.
- Remove 1/2 in. (1.27 cm) of insulation from the receiver’s white and red wires, crimp the red wire to an inline fuse holder, and insert the fuse into the holder.
- Mount the receiver high in the dash, screw the ring terminal to the chassis, and route white and red wires to the GPS device mounting location behind the dash cluster.
- Secure the receiver’s blue antenna wire vertically along the a-pillar or high under the dash.
4. Device connection.
Locate wire stripper, insulated crimper, three butt connectors, cordless drill, ring terminal, star washer, self-tapping screw and heat gun.- Strip 1/2 in. (1.27 cm) of insulation from the GPS Device harness Blue input 1 wire, twist the wire strands and connect to panic receiver white wire.
- Strip 1/2 in. (1.27 cm) of insulation from the GPS Device harness Brown output 1, twist wire strands and connect to the solid black light wire.
- Heat both connectors.
- Using the poke and wrap technique, connect both the receiver’s and light’s red wires to the constant circuit identified in Installation preparation Step #1.3.
- Remove 1 in. (2.5 cm) of insulation with razor knife/wire strippers, and gently poke a non-conductive tool between the exposed wires to create an even loop.
- Remove 1 1/2 in. (4 cm) of insulation from the end of each fuse, twist the wire strands and insert them into the loop.
- Squeeze the loop shut, and tightly wrap the bare wire around the exposed wire at least 3 times.
- Fold the wire back and generously wrap electrical tape around the connection, crossing over the insulation on both sides.
- Secure the connection with one cable tie directly over the wire-to-wire connection and another cable tie on a stress loop created 1 in. (2.5 cm) from the connection.